How do we start

Folks like me that build figures from Kenny Croes Collection heads sometimes don't know where to start.  So here's a short basic list:

1. Cut off the back of the head.  I secure the head in a vise and cut straight down from the top of the head to the nape of the neck using a hacksaw.  Some folks might choose to use a power tool, but as I've said before, I'm only allowed a select number of power tools. (My wife doesn't like emergency room visits.) 
2. Next, punch out the eyes and remove the plastic if the mouth is covered.  I use a drill with a 3/8" or 7/16" drill bit to take out the eyes. I use a Dremel cutting tool (very small round blade) to clear the mouth area.
3. Cut a hole at the bottom of the neck for your headstick if you need to.  I order my heads without the socket ball.  I prefer to purchase the Braylu PVC pipe headsticks with the neck transition (socket ball) attached.
4. Using a Dremel fine grinding bit, smooth and shape the eye sockets and mouth opening. 
5. No casting is perfect, so first you'll need to sand off any unwanted bumps and fill a few bubble holes.  I prefer white Elmer's Carpenter Wood Filler.
6. After the wood filler dries, I sand the head as smooth as possible.
7. If I'm absolutely sure I know where I want to place the eyebrows, I'll drill the holes in the forehead for the 1/8" brass tubes that will contain the eyebrow rods.  I'll save this step for later if I'd prefer to develop the face more before I choose my spot.
8. Then I turn my attention to the jaws.  I sand and/or fill where needed, then I drill the holes for the 1/8" brass axle tube. 
9. I install the brass axle tube and secure it with Magic-Sculpt.
10. At this point, I want to determine the best placement for the jaw in the head.  I cut a 3.5"-length of brass rod, slip it in the jaw's brass axle tube. and find the best spot in the head for the jaw to swing freely.  Shorten the brass axle rod if you need to so the jaw will insert far enough into the head. Don't be surprised if you have to trim, sand and/or fill the opening (and/or jaw) to get the jaw to freely open and close.
11. I mark where the brass rod axle ends make contact with the head's interior.  That's where I will place my axle slots on both side of the head's interior.  I use Magic-Sculpt to form the slots. 
12. Before you sink the axle ends into the Magic-Sculpt to form the slots, put a little Vaseline on the axle ends so you'll be able to lift the axle away from the Magic-Sculpt.  Be sure to make the slots open-ended so you can slip the axle in and out easily.  Later down the line, you can cover the slots with Magic-Sculpt to permanently secure the jaw's axle in the head.