Stick with this

I'm fond of the Braylu headticks made from PVC pipe and a neck transition (the rounded part).  I find it much easier to work with than wood.  I attach the triggers with bolts and washers.  From top to bottom, the triggers control the crossing eyes, jaw and eyebrows.  On the other side of the headstick you can see the rocker, which controls the side-to-side eye movement.

Take a walk

I admit it.  I spend a lot of time in my workshop building ventriloquist figures.  But occasionally I leave the building and take a walk in the woods.  And there are lots of woods to choose from here in Oregon.  This photo was taken while walking along the path behind the Oregon Institute of Marine Biology in Charleston, Oregon. 

It's good to get some fresh air once in a while.

Cool tool drool

I've been lusting after a cordless drill for some time.  I actually own one, but the battery is kaput. A replacement would cost nearly $60.  Then I got this email from Sears advertising a cordless drill, variable speed, with battery and charger, regularly $79, now just $49.  Had to get it.  It's not as lightweight as a lithium battery, but it'll work just fine.

Now I gotta go punch a hole in somethin'.

Gimme Jimmy

I'm hoping someone will say,"Gimme Jimmy".  The little scamp is all dressed up and ready to go... somewhere.  He even made a video for you to view.  Click here and watch the li'l fella act up. He'll make a fine knee pal for someone.

Take a bite

More goofy dental work as I've finished the lower jaw on the revised Elmore.  After a touch more sanding, I'll paint the jaw with a coat of primer, then start adding color.  The last step will be a coat of clear glossy varnish to give the interior of the mouth a wet look.

Goofy dental work

From a time-spent perspective, I've plowed too many hours into revising my Elmore head and jaw considering how much he'll likely fetch on Ebay.  But sometimes I'll spend more time if there's a learning experience in it for me.  That's certainly the case here.

When forming the lower lip on the rebuilt jaw, I made room for a couple of protruding odd-ball teeth.  The open and close of the jaw moves very smoothly, which really took up my time.  At first it was locking up and I couldn't figure out why.  Persistence eventually paid off after much grinding and sanding. 

Next step is to put lower teeth and tongue in the jaw.

Almost every ventriloquist has a picture like this

That's my little brother Mike standing next to me and my dummy Jackie.  Mike was 6, I was about 10.  I performed with a local troupe of kid entertainers in Bakersfield. 

Rick Davis was a 10-year-old piano prodigy.  He would blow big bubblegum bubbles while playing Bach.  It was Rick's Dad who organized the troupe and booked the gigs at Masonic Lodges, school assemblies, church groups and the like.  Rick's little brother played Fender electric guitar and sang rock tunes.  I thought that was cool.

My little brother Mike played saxophone and basketball.  (He got real tall.).

Bounty

Magic-Sculpt is a wonderful substance.  But it's also very dense and can add unwanted weight.  So once in a while I prefer to fill an area with something lighter, then put Magic-Sculpt over it.

In this case, I used a wadded-up paper towel to fill a chin area on the Elmore jaw. I balled it up really tight, then glued it to the styrene plastic.  Then I dripped Elmer's Glue over the top of the paper towel and spread it around.  It's almost like making a paper-mache. 

Hair there

Just for fun, I removed the wig from my "Fred Project" figure (the first I ever made) and placed it on my full-size figure model.  The wig adds even more character.  It's easier to see who this fella is going to be.

Chin up

After mauling my stock Elmore jaw, I've begun the rebuild.  I've secured some styrene plastic to the top portion.  That platform will hold the tongue and teeth. I cut the outer edge to fit the basic contour of the head's upper lip.

The styrene below plugs the opening.  Between the plastic on the top and bottom, I'll insert a yet-to-be-specified space filler.  Then I'll sculpt the chin and bottom lip over that. 

Because I've already fit the jaw in the head so it can swing freely, I'll sculpt the bottom of the chin so it will fit nicely in the neck opening. 

Rough to look at

For some reason this shot grosses me out, but I can't exactly figure out why.  The point of the photo is so make sure folks who work with my Kenny Croes Collection heads on Braylu take a moment for a tip. 

Be sure to rough up the interior of the head so that Magic-Sculpt or like substance will grip to the otherwise smooth urethane.  I used to only rough up the spots where I anticipated contact.  Now I do the whole head's interior to accommodate innovation (or sometimes repair).

I use a Dremel with a small round-ball bit (don't know the actual name of it) to mess with the inside. I hold the Dremel with one hand and the ShopVac with the other to reduce the fine debris.

Is it me or is that picture gross?

Am I repeating myself?

Well?

Am I repeating myself?

Well?

Wrinkle Winkle

Just for being such an ornery cuss, Mr. Winkle gets a couple more neck sags.  Though the turkey neck was on the original model, the two additional wrinkles  were not, so I add them to each casting.

Try saying the title of this post ten times in a row without moving your lips.

While smiling.